Clem's Kuching Laksa Paste

Laksa is a well-known food item in Malaysia and elsewhere but it means different organoleptic experiences in different parts of the country. The recipes and taste outcomes vary tremendously. The more widely known versions of laksa include "curry laksa", "assam laksa" and "JB laksa".
 

And then there is the singular laksa which is found in Kuching. I use the adjective "Kuching" with this laksa for a couple of reasons: (i) it is a dish for which the recipe quite certainly originated in Kuching, Sarawak in early post-WW2; (ii) it is also called "Sarawak Laksa" (erroneously in my view) but again, the taste and outcomes of this product where offered, varies and is never much like the Kuching product.

An eatery's rendition of Kuching laksa found at "Alfred Laksa", Jalan Datuk Abang Abdul Rahim, Kuching

Even in Kuching, the laksa cognoscenti will tell you that there is a great variation in taste and looks of Kuching laksa. For me, there are two general kinds of Kuching laksa: One with a distinct curry flavour and one without. The laksa which is not redolent of curry is the genuine product.

Laksa is cooked using a paste which is rarely prepared in home kitchens. This is because the recipe for this paste has been closely guarded since its inception, plus it is rather involved to make it. The paste is usually bought from a commercial source and there are many brands (and therefore tastes) available nowadays.

My preferred brand of paste is no longer available and it was made by who is thought to be one of the original purveyors or originators of Kuching laksa. This was the Tan family who lived at Kim Keat Road where their paste was made. But their legend now lives on through one of the sons who continues to make the paste to the old recipe: It is available in Kuching (and mail order) as the "Barrett's" brand (Barrett being the name of the son).

Nowadays, it is possible to find some recipes for Kuching laksa on the web but it is not easy to know which one results in a good (or authentic) outcome. I first came across a recipe in November 2011 when 3tummies published "the secret of Sarawak laksa paste revealed". I cross-referenced this recipe with others found online (most of which seem to be based on the 3tummies version) and found that the 3tummies recipe omitted an important spice: fennel. Further, it looked like it probably had an over abundance of coriander. I decide to make up my own formulation based on my research. The latter is based on what I imagine the flavour profile should be like from decades of enjoying Kuching laksa.

The main ingredients for Kuching laksa paste: Fresh chillis; dried chills; Bombay onions; white sesame seeds; galangal, garlic; sugar; candlenut; peanuts; star anise; cloves; green cardamon; cumin seed; coriander seed; tamarind paste
 

Method

• Blend all the fresh ingredients with as much water and/or cooking oil as needed to achieve a smooth paste.

• Grind all the dry ingredients to a rough blend.

• In a generous amount of cooking oil, fry the fresh ingredients paste for some 15 minutes after which add the ground dry spices.

After the dry spices are combined with the fresh ingredients.
A longer fry follows this step
 

• Note that for the amounts in this recipe, as much as a litre of cooking oil may need to be added to the fry so that catching (to the pan) and burning is prevented, and so that a proper browning of the mix can be achieved.
   

• Continue slow frying under low heat for some hours (I did around two, and you may also bake the mix in a covered container) with constant stirring to prevent burning, until the paste changes into a dark brown colour. The oil from the mix (an emulsion) will ultimately split with proper frying and become visible as a dark red oil.
  
  Towards the end of the fry, make up tamarind water by adding some water to the tamarind paste and remove all the seeds if found. Add the water to the fry. Also add salt and as much sugar (I used 100 g) as necessary to balance out the spiciness of the paste.

• With a lot of elbow grease and care, this is the paste you should end up with:

The finished paste after some 2 hours of  frying with constant stirring.
It is associated a decent amount of cooking oil released from the paste during the frying.
 

This is an oily paste. Those who are averse to the quantity of oil may (i) use a "healthier" oil, or (ii) remove the oil after frying and prior to preparing the laksa dish. Do remember that the oil will contain a lot of the flavours of the paste.

The finished paste packed for frozen storage
 

Cooking Kuching laksa involves taking an appropriate amount of paste simmered in a hearty, meat bone or seafood broth (or use chicken stock powder or bouillon cube) and then sieving to remove the paste insolubles after some minutes (do not over do the simmering as it will change the flavour profile; 30 minutes of infusion should be sufficient).

The laksa paste being cooked in added water to make the laksa broth

Coconut milk is added to the laksa broth prior to it being ladled over rice vermicelli and some blanched bean sprouts. Cooked prawn, shredded chicken, sliced fish cake, and sliced thin egg omelette are placed on top of the rice vermicelli. It is often garnished with coriander sprouts and served with a belachan paste accompanied by a wedge of calamansi lime.

My version of the belachan paste for laksa may be made thus:

• Toast some belachan until dry on the outside and fragrant.

• Combine the belachan with laksa paste in the ratio of 1:1.

• Add pounded or ground fresh chilli of an amount to your liking.

• Add sugar to taste.

• Mix together with calamansi juice.

• Add this belachan paste to your laksa gravy before eating, together with a squirt of calamansi.

Delicious!

This my rendition of Kuching laksa was cooked with the paste prepared as described above